Happy Lake Ridge Trail, Olympic Nat’l Park close-in, easy-access, lightly-used, less-dramatic, classic backpacking, loop

Happy Lake Ridge Trail, lower timber & salal
Happy Lake Ridge Trail, lower timber & salal

Happy Lake Ridge Trail is part of a complete loop-route, 17 miles long.  It’s a 3,000′ climb from the Happy Lake Ridge Trailhead, topping out in about 3 miles, and then a subalpine walk along a very broad & mild, semi-open ridge-system; almost rolling plateau-like.  There is standard camping at Happy Lake, which someone once called wet and buggy (weather-related?), but is set in a fine geology-exhibit & invitation to explore.  The trail makes a tee with the Aurora Divide Trail at about 7.5 miles, and then reaches its end at Boulder Lake, at 9.5 miles.  Then it’s downhill for the rest of the loop (partly on the low-key, antique road).

Continue readingHappy Lake Ridge Trail, Olympic Nat’l Park close-in, easy-access, lightly-used, less-dramatic, classic backpacking, loop

Happy Lake Ridge Trailhead, Olympic Nat’l Park a well-made pullout, hidden in glare of famous neighbor

Pullout trailhead for Happy Lake Ridge Trail
Pullout trailhead for Happy Lake Ridge Trail

Happy Lake Ridge Trailhead is a roomy pullout along the upper Olympic Hot Springs Road.  It’s a shy mile beyond the Observation Point lookout, and a couple miles before the end of the road at Boulder Creek Trailhead.  It is at 1,700′, up the northern side of Boulder Creek canyon some 650′. Traffic is usually light; the main useage being folks using the trailhead at the end.  A good spot to stop and look around, without being committed to the almost 3,000′ climb of Happy Lake Ridge Trail. Continue readingHappy Lake Ridge Trailhead, Olympic Nat’l Park a well-made pullout, hidden in glare of famous neighbor

Observation Point, Olympic Hotsprings Road, Olympic Nat’l Park old feature of old road - with a new future?

Obvervation Point rock-cut, Olympic Hotsprings Road
Obvervation Point rock-cut, Olympic Hotsprings Road

Observation Point is a small developed lookout above the now-drained of Lake Mills reservoir of the Elwha River, along the Olympic Hot Springs Road on a jutting shoulder of Happy Lake Ridge.  The road then turns and heads into the Boulder Creek canyon.  In former times, the hillside below the little lookout parking lot was cleared of trees growing up and blocking the view.  But more recently, it has become evident that this clearing is no longer being done.  With the new valley below – the Elwha Restoration Project – will Olympic National Park again remove trees to restore this viewscape? Continue readingObservation Point, Olympic Hotsprings Road, Olympic Nat’l Park old feature of old road – with a new future?

Aurora Ridge Trail, Olympic Nat’l Park near-in backcountry, some safe route-finding, sedate splendor, light usage

Aurora Ridge Trail runs 16 miles along Aurora Ridge, which borders the south side of Lake Crescent, in the northwest of Olympic National Park.  Its Aurora Ridge Trailhead is on the Sol Duc Hot Springs Road.  The trail climbs the west end of the ridge gradually, eventually gaining 3,000 feet, before ending in the east – still in high country – at the intersection with Aurora Divide Trail.

Elwha Basin river crossing alternative stream-crossings are an underrated hazard

Elwha Basin
Elwha Basin

Elwha Basin river crossing alternative describes a good way to avoid the standard crossing of the Elwha River, near its headwater, usually as part of using the Elwha Snow Finger route between the high-country and the lowlands (and the official trail system).  The Elwha, though small here, is steeper than it looks:  the normal crossing-point is impossible in any kind of high water; it is frequently dangerous, and usually difficult.  There is a ready and favorable alternative, using the lower toe of Mount Seattle, which in the map-crop is the prominent ridge between the main river and Elwha Basin Way Trail, and the southern part of the Basin. Continue readingElwha Basin river crossing alternative stream-crossings are an underrated hazard

Elwha Snow Finger, Olympic Nat’l Park

Elwha Snow Finger is an important and rather unusual route-feature that greatly facilitates traveling between the Olympic Mountains core high-country terrain, and the adjoining lowlands (and official trail system).  It is a 2 mile long linear canyon, with a narrow perennial snowfield filling the bottom.  It is very easy to walk on.

At the far south end of the standard Traverse, the standard take-out is via .  Many people over many decades have strolled down the narrow, linear, snow-packed gorge.  But the creek-sized Elwha River has a large cavern underneath, and at the opening a gentle blast of chill air blows out … all of it was warm summer air drawn in and passing its calories to the perennial snow-mass.   Reports of accidents on the Snow Finger are not common, but it doesn’t take an in-depth study of this exceptionally handy little snow-highway, to get the uncomfortable feeling that maybe we’ve been lucky.

To not use the Snow Finger would mean added work & time, but it need not be a lot, nor unrewarding in itself.  There are two categories of options, one to stay low & close, and the other to hold high and away from the Elwha-channel.  Staying low, one must not get too far down-slope, without getting back from extremely rough conditions along the stream-channel.  Staying high is attractive, but eventually requires losing elevation faster.   Concern with rotten snow is less near the top, beginning at Dodwell-Rixon Pass, and becomes greater further downstream.

A meaningful upside to abandoning the Snow Finger, will be cutting out the crossings of the small but very steep Elwha River.  Although shallow, the water is fast and can be shockingly powerful.  This seeming-piddling stream can be the diciest part of the whole Traverse, and not-using the Snow Finger can eliminate it.  Again, the caveat is chutes and rough-spots on the lower and mid slopes of the ridge between Mount Barnes and Mount Wilder, the ridge that is the feasible ground.  It looks good at the high elevations, but will require route-picking to avoid issues down-slope.  These lower slopes are on good display from the Elwha Basin, and along the path that arches up through it & back down to the base of the Snow Finger (which is the standard way to avoid the cliffs & chasms adjoining the Elwha erosion-channel).   The Basin gains considerable elevation, beyond & above the path, with few obstructions of the view of the Barnes-Wilder face across the river.

This Barnes-Wilder Ridge was ascended from the far Goldie River side in 1889-90, by the Press Expedition, and they then descended the Elwha-side of it to a point near where we would today, to rejoin the Elwha River Trail.  The Press group was doing the same thing that one would, staying on the high ground above the Snow Finger.

Bailey Range Traverse, Olympic Nat’l Park a sensible but significant off-trail adventure in Olympic Park

Mt Carrie and Mt Fairchild from Mt Fitzhenry
Mt Carrie and Mt Fairchild from Mt Fitzhenry

Bailey Range Traverse is an unofficial, informal hiking-route over about 15 miles of the interior, core Bailey Range ridge-massif of the Olympic Mountains, within the Olympic National Park.  Much of it has an easily-followed path, but there are sections that become unclear and uncertain, and thus can be especially memorable.   Perennial – and varying – snow patches, fields and glacier-remnants exist in the south, upper, far-interior section.  Hazards are generally mild, but it is rough terrain, and isolated.   Weather is a large factor, especially on longer outings.  Actual travel distance is at least half again the air-miles, and some parts can be slow or ‘tedious’.  The full tour including approach & exit usually takes a week; hot-doggers post quicker transits, and the luckier folks take longer.  The core portion alone is a good 3-day project. Continue readingBailey Range Traverse, Olympic Nat’l Park a sensible but significant off-trail adventure in Olympic Park